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For one week each year, Melbourne's inner-city Albert Park shifts up to top gear. Close to half a million spectators walk through the gates to watch the first race of the Formula 1 Championship.
You'll hear four different languages ordering coffee within the same 30 seconds and see more colours being worn in one week than you would in a month. Melbournians are famously fond of wearing black.
Then, almost overnight, the grandstands come down and Melbourne slips straight back into its usual rhythm of laneways, sport obsession, and people discussing where to find the best flat white.
That balance is the point. The Formula 1 Australian Grand Prix is a massive event, but it doesn't swallow the city. Melbourne stays Melbourne. Approach race week properly and be rewarded with the discovery of distinct, vibrant, sophisticated city full of personality.
Melbourne knows how to deliver epic major events. Victoria's capital city hosts events that attract the biggest crowds including the Australian Open, Australian Rules Football (AFL), and concerts -- Taylor Swift's biggest crowd during her Eras Tour was 96,000 in Melbourne. So the Grand Prix doesn't feel like a chaotic takeover, it feels like a familiar kind of energy.
Albert Park is right on the city's doorstep, close enough that you can attend a morning session at the circuit, be back in the CBD for a late lunch, and then head to rooftop drinks.
The race itself has become part of a bigger festival, too. On track you've got four days of action across multiple motorsport categories, and off track there's a festival of motorsport and car culture. Displays, activations, simulators, pop-ups, people showing off their pride and joy. Few races create that city-wide motoring buzz like Melbourne does.
Albert Park is quick for a street circuit, and it's a place where the start matters. Who can forget last year's disastrous start for Isack Hadjar? Melbourne has seen its share of opening-lap drama, and it's a race where weather can change everything. That unpredictability is part of the deal. It's also why you need to treat Melbourne's March conditions with respect.
Melbourne's weather is famous for having 'four seasons in one day'. Last year's extreme weather is an example - qualifying Saturday was a blistering 36 degrees, and race day Sunday saw a torrential down pour.
The trick to be comfortable in Melbourne is to be prepared. Wearing layers is key and bring a rain jacket. The day can start warm and sunny and soon change to howling winds and a sharp drop by the afternoon. Wear comfortable, closed shoes because if it's dry, it'll be dusty and muddy if it's not.
Melbourne Airport is the main gateway, and the simplest way into the city is SkyBus to Southern Cross Station with frequent services.
A car isn't really needed. Melbourne is serviced by excellent trams in the inner city and trains and buses out to the suburbs. During Grand Prix week, staying near a good tram line would be my recommendation if you're not staying within walking distance.
Public transport runs on 'myki', a reusable 'tap' card you buy one at train stations, vending machines, and 7-Eleven and other convenience stores. Rideshare is everywhere too, and taxis are easy enough, but parking in the CBD is limited at the best of times and around Albert Park it's near impossible.
Tram is the most efficient way in and out of Albert Park. Race ticket holders get free public transport to and from the circuit, which is a genuine win.
Routes like tram number 96, 12 and 1 are the regular for race access, and there are also special services run frequently. Still, allow time. Crowds build quickly, and once you're off the tram there's walking involved. You can expect some queueing at gates. The Australian Grand Prix Association says they have widened the pedestrian bridges, which should lessen the slow shuffle to the infield.
Arrive early, especially on Sunday. There's so much to see and do once you're through the gates that you want to allow enough time. And if you can, stay after the race. Melbourne has great post-race entertainment and concerts, which is more enjoyable than queuing to get onto a crowded tram. Keep the party going and exit Gate 1, and head to the Middle Park Hotel directly opposite.
At the circuit, the Melbourne Walk is where fans line the fence, hoping to catch drivers walking into before sessions begin. It's a long-standing ritual and one of the few places where a quick wave or selfie still feels possible, particularly earlier in the weekend. Gate 1 is the closest access point, and fans queue up before opening and sprint like Usain Bolt to secure a position.
Melbourne is the culinary capital of Australia and it's a reputation its immensely proud of.
For classic Melbourne fine dining, book ahead at Attica or Vue de Monde.
Florentino is polished, proper Italian and owner Guy Grossi, a local celebrity chef, makes the best tiramisù I've ever had (and I've tasted 14 different versions in Treviso, the birthplace of the famed layered dessert). He also owns the relaxed restaurant next door, Ombre, that works beautifully for lunch or an early dinner.
For modern Southeast Asian fresh flavours, head to the reliable Chin Chin in Flinders Lane which remains on the 'best of' lists even after 15 years.
For late-night Melbourne, Stalactites is the Greek staple for gyros and kebabs and open late.
Race fans, don't miss Lune to enjoy 'the best croissant in the world', yes, awarded the title, beating those in France. Pastry chef and owner of Lune, Kate Reid, was once a Formula 1 engineer for Williams.
An institution, Pellegrini's imported the first coffee machine into Melbourne. It's still an old-school Italian espresso bar and always full of characters and energy as it serves no-frills pasta at the counter.
Here, they take their coffee seriously. Orders are specific and standards are high. With more cafés per capita than anywhere else, Melbourne's culture runs deep enough that baristas are treated less like service staff and more like skilled tradespeople.
Melbourne also has legitimate coffee credentials. They invented the flat white, much like a cappuccino without the foamy top. You could order a latte, no one will stop you. If you want to drink coffee like a local, order a flat white. It's smoother, less foamy, and built for the perfect balance of espresso and milk.
Then there's the magic. Magic coffee is a Melbourne original. It's essentially a double ristretto topped with textured milk, usually served in a smaller cup. Stronger than a flat white, smoother than a long black, and perfect if you want something with bite but no bitterness. Not every café lists it, but most good baristas know exactly what you mean.
Here's what I tell friends: Melbourne is best explored one neighbourhood at a time.
In the sporting precinct on the fringe of the CBD, do a tour of the iconic Melbourne Cricket Ground (MCG). Affectionately known as 'the G', it's here where the city's sporting obsession is showcased.
Wander the CBD laneways without a plan, admiring the street art every few steps. Food lovers should head to South Melbourne Market, perfect if you're self-catering and great for cheap street eats.
For some culture, the National Gallery of Victoria (NGV) is mostly free and it's genuinely good. ACMI at Federation Square, a museum of film, television and videogames, is also free with plenty of hands-on interactive displays.
Then venture into a neighbourhood. Carlton for Little Italy energy and post-race tifosi crowds. Fitzroy for street art, bars, vintage and a creative edge. Collingwood for breweries, galleries and outlet shopping in converted-warehouse spaces. Beachy St Kilda for the pier at sunset, Luna Park, patisseries, and live music at The Espy or Palais Theatre.
The F1 Exhibition at the Melbourne Exhibition Centre is the ultimate playground for race fans. F1 simulators, five Formula 1 cars, and seven rooms filled with stories and memorabilia with an emphasis on the Australians involved. Displays include tyres, engines, helmets, race suits, rare artefacts, behind-the-scenes photography and interactive displays that unpack the technology and culture of Formula 1. Organisers shave extended sessions during race week, book ahead here.
Stay and enjoy Melbourne and its surrounds. The Yarra Valley is an easy day trip for wineries, food and scenery, as is the Mornington Peninsular for its hot springs (book ahead).
Go farther, rent a car and spend two to four extra days on the Great Ocean Road, one of the world's most scenic road trips. Rugged cliffs, sweeping coastal views, and famous surf breaks are a feast for the eyes. You might even see koalas in the wild.
Phillip Island is around two hours by car (or tour) and gives you beaches, the MotoGP circuit, and the cutest little fairy penguins returning after sunset. There's also a koala sanctuary with a canopy walk which is a beautiful and rare experience to be eye level with a koala nestled between gum branches.
Follow team newsletters and socials to be in the know of driver appearances and sponsor activations. Book restaurants. Book accommodation for an extended stay. Buy tickets to an AFL match at the MCG if you're there the week after the Grand Prix.
When it comes to packing, think layers, bring a rain jacket and shoes that will protect your feet. And be prepared for Melbourne to do what it does best, which is give you an unforgettable race week no matter what the weather decides to do.
If you'd like my comprehensive free guide to Melbourne, click here.
Dianne Bortoletto is a freelance travel, food, lifestyle and Formula 1 journalist and host of Away We Go Podcast.